Heritage as a Living Neighborhood, Not a Stage Set: On "Re-Souqification"

Salman bin Abdulla Al Khalifa over at The Gulf Between has been writing excellent articles on Gulf urbanism, covering the region's challenges in urban mobility and thermal comfort. Salman has introduced the idea of ‘re-souqification’ in Khaleeji urban praxis, he has written an entire article on this notion, but to summarize it in one sentence it is reintroducing the urbanism and social dynamics typical of souqs into contemporary city planning (There are many more layers and dynamics to Al-Khalifa’s ideas, and this is a gross over simplification so I do encourage you to read his article over at his Substack!). The idea and term is fantastic, the argument is rooted in the fact that healthy and good urbanist praxis is innately rooted in our urban cultural identity, an effective way to argue for a better built urban form with a nationalist agenda. 

Cultural activations within the Layali Al-Muharraq event. (Source: Al-Ayam Newspaper)

Al-Khalifa and Maryam Al-Noaimi’s article, “What the Gulf can learn from a few nights in Muharraq”, spotlights Muharraq Nights as a living model of heritage being treated as living urban fabric, not a curated backdrop. By activating real streets, houses, and neighborhoods, supported by light, temporary infrastructure and local participation. It demonstrates that cultural authenticity in the Gulf comes from use, movement, and everyday social life, not from building new “heritage-themed” destinations. I’d like to expand on this notion with thoughts of my own!

It is not surprising then that other Gulf cities have started engaging with their heritage sites with similar festivities, Saudi Arabia has many initiatives all across the Kingdom, Layali Al-Qaisiriya in Al-Ahsaa, Winter at Tantora in Al-Ula, Balad Al-Fann in the old town of Jeddah, just to name a few. The United Arab Emirates has the Sharjah Heritage Days events, as well as the Sikka Art & Design Festival in Dubai. National and municipal governments have recognized the power of culture as a driver for economic development, which is why there has been a massive investment in creating these types of festivals. 

What is critical - however, is not to treat these festivals as the solution to activate heritage sites as a living part of the urban fabric. The notion of ‘resouqification’ does not stop at creating pieces of urban theatres for a few weeks of the year, but it is a holistic framework for thinking about commercial spaces in the Khaleeji urban. Like Al-Khalifa & Al-Noaimi, who have posited 4 lessons in the article, I’d like to pose 4 questions to policymakers and planners in the region to achieve real and authentic souqification. 


First - Who is re-souqification serving?

In much of the Gulf, our most celebrated “human-scale” districts and heritage activations are implicitly designed for a narrow set of users: nationals, tourists, and affluent expats. Where space becomes an end-product: polished, curated, and priced accordingly. Yet Gulf cities are also defined by a large transient population of migrant workers who already inhabit old downtown cores, not because of nostalgia, but because of affordability and access to jobs, transit, and everyday services. If re-souqification is serious about restoring souq urbanism as a living social system, it must start by recognizing the current user of these spaces and asking whether revitalization will include them, displace them, or simply render them invisible.

As planners, it is easy to get absorbed in the re-souqification agenda. Particularly when its framed as part of a broader nation-building project and an effort to define and spotlight our architectural heritage and identity. But the souq is more than its image; it is also a social contract. It is shared streets, overlapping users, and an economy that remains accessible to those who rely on the city most.

A busy night in Msheireb Downtown Doha. (Source: The Peninsula)

In practice, this question surfaces most clearly through displacement. Revitalization often brings rent escalation that quietly filters out the very users who kept these districts alive. The small traders, repair shops, cafeterias, and shared housing tenants who brought the streets alive. Tighter commercial licensing requirements privilege formal, capital-heavy businesses, while enforcement against partitioned or shared apartments removes the affordable residential base that sustains daily footfall. The result is a paradox: the urban life that justified preservation is regulated out of existence. If re-souqification is to remain faithful to its premise, planning must address affordability as deliberately as design, otherwise revitalization becomes replacement rather than renewal.

Second - How much informality, friction, and unpredictability are authorities willing to tolerate in historic urban spaces?

Part of the souq’s charm is its disorderly environment. They were noisy, overlapping, and unplanned, rather they were negotiated. These negotiated spaces resulted in a streetscape that is lively in character, with vendors spilling into walkways, goods displayed beyond shop thresholds, bargaining, chance encounters, and a constant reconfiguration of use throughout the day. Much of their vitality came precisely from this friction: the small inconveniences and unpredictability that signaled a place was alive rather than managed. Yet contemporary heritage management frameworks often aim to eliminate these conditions in the name of safety, branding, and visitor experience.

Street vendors in an old Abu Dhabi souq. (Source: Aletihad News Center)

Now I am not calling for the abolishment of regulation, but rather that municipal governance should permit some level of spontaneity. A souq reduced to circulation corridors and uniform storefronts may be visually coherent but they are socially sterile. Re-souqification therefore requires a recalibration of tolerance: allowing negotiated use of space, temporary appropriation, and minor disorder as part of normal urban function rather than treating them as failures of management.

Now that isn’t to say that our manicured and high-end spaces shouldn’t exist, they play a vital role in our urban ecosystem. Rather they should coexist with different types of souqs that naturally feed into each other. The issue arises when our manicured urban becomes the only permissible expression of public life. The authentic souq network is plural, it is both the formal and the informal, the polished and the rough, the predictable and the improvised, both paradigms serving the other. When these layers are allowed to coexist and remain spatially connected, they form a continuous urban economy rather than isolated enclaves. Re-souqification, then, is not the replacement of one model with another, but the stitching together of multiple urban conditions into a single, mutually reinforcing system.

Third - Do we want heritage districts that perform culture, or ones that produce it? Do we want heritage districts that are episodically activated destinations or actively lived in places?

The Musahar, once a familiar pre-dawn figure walking Qatari neighborhoods during Ramadan, gently waking families for suhoor.

Today, the tradition is largely revived for cultural and tourist spaces, while rarely practiced in residential neighborhoods where it once naturally belonged. (Source: Qatar Streets on TikTok)

Many heritage districts today are designed to perform culture rather than produce it. Their success is measured through programming calendars, visitor counts, and seasonal activation, where life arrives in scheduled intervals and recedes once the event concludes. Yet historically, the souq was not a venue, it was an economic and social system embedded in daily routines. The morning deliveries, afternoon trade, evening gathering, and night-time services produced culture. Not as a curated offering, but as a byproduct of ordinary use.

The distinction matters because episodic activation creates destinations, while residency creates places. A district animated only during festivals remains dependent on continuous intervention, marketing, and management, and not to commodify urbanism but it also means more cost! By contrast, a lived-in district sustains itself through everyday necessities like groceries, tailoring, repairs, services, and informal encounters. 

Re-souqification therefore asks whether we are willing to prioritize permanence over spectacle, allowing housing, daily commerce, and mundane activity to anchor heritage areas so that events become an extension of life rather than its substitute.

Fourth - How comfortable are we with heritage districts evolving in ways that don’t always align with curated national narratives?

Even when historic districts remain active and inclusive, another tension emerges: whether we allow them to generate meanings beyond the narratives we planned for them. Heritage frameworks often present the past as coherent, unified, and representative of a singular national story. Yet historically, the Khaleeji souq was a hybrid space. The geographic situation of the Gulf meant that the souq was shaped by migrants, sailors, traders, craftsmen, and transient communities whose practices were not always tidy reflections of identity. 

A living district will inevitably produce uses, aesthetics, and social patterns that feel ordinary, improvised, or even uncomfortable when measured against curated heritage imagery. The question, then, is whether preservation aims to protect buildings alone, or the social processes that once animated them, even when those processes complicate the story we intend to tell.

“Traditional stone-built houses in Najada” (Source: Traditional Domestic Architecture of Qatar by Daniel Eddisford)

Allowing heritage to live means accepting that culture shifts and changes over time. That culture has many authors. Re-souqification therefore requires a shift from safeguarding an image of the past to stewarding an evolving urban culture, where authenticity is not fixed in time but continuously authored by its users.


The notion of re-souqification put forth by Al-Khalifa is rich and layered, rooted in our cultural heritage and in the need to honor it authentically rather than symbolically. The argument that cultural authenticity in the Gulf comes from use, movement, and everyday social life, not from building new “heritage-themed” destinations is spot on. Authenticity cannot be achieved through architectural resemblance alone. It emerges from the conditions we allow everyday life to take who can remain, how space is negotiated, what activities are tolerated, and whether meaning is permitted to evolve beyond what we script.

Re-souqification ultimately asks not only from our architecture and urban design, but it asks much from our governance. A souq appears when affordability, proximity, mixed users, and informal exchange are allowed to coexist, not when they are curated into seasonal experiences. If the Gulf is serious about building culturally grounded cities, the task is not to recreate historic districts as heritage products, but to enable them to function as living urban systems, socially mixed, economically accessible, and open to interpretation.

The challenge, then, is not just how to make our new districts look like souqs, but how to allow our cities to behave like them again.

Heritage, Citizen Planning, and Fostering Belonging

Photo taken near Qasr Al-Hokm. (Myself, 2025)

The International Society of City and Regional Planners' 61st World Planning Congress hosted in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, last week calls on "Cities & Regions in Action: Planning Pathways to Resilience and Quality of Life" to analyze, discuss, and search for better pathways for urban and regional planning aiming at improving the quality of life of citizens.

It is in this light that I'd like to share a personal story from last year - on an experience I've had, 200 km north west of the host city: Riyadh.

Most of my visits to Riyadh have only been for a few days, usually to attend a workshop, conference, meeting, or an event. On my last trip, I've decided to experience Riyadh in a completely new light - not as a city of the future, but as a city of the past, rooted in its culture, heritage, and history.

I've long been interested in heritage sites within the built form. The adaptive reuse of buildings, its activation, management, and the way that it forms the city's identity. It is for that reason, I decided to explore a village rich in history and culture, with roots to my own heritage.

 

Early in the morning, on a complete whim, I was exploring the area surrounding Riyadh via Google Earth, and my eyes lay on a familiar name: Ushaiqer. I had heard of Ushaiqer from family members as the origin point of our family, 200 odd years ago or so. Without doing any research on what it looks like, whether or not it had been preserved, and how easy it is to get there, I grabbed my car keys and made the drive.

I arrived in Ushaiqer around noon, right after Duhur prayer. As I was walking down its alleys, I was stunned by just how peaceful, quiet, and stunning its buildings are, and quickly started taking photos with my phone. Given my arrival time, it was no surprise that the village was empty and quiet, but from a distance I hear the sound of laughter, and I hear a voice calling for me:

أووه، يالكشخة! تعال! اخوياي سواليفهم مثل وجيههم ما عاد ابيها. تعال اهنا ناخذ من عندك العلوم الطيبة.

If I were to translate it, it would be something along the lines of: “Hey, style icon! Over here! I’d done with my boys and their dead chat, it’s getting unbearable. Slide over and give us the good stuff, you look like you got some good conversation!”

Dar Al-Mshraq [Al-Salem House], Ushaiqer Heritage Village. (Myself, 2025)

I walk over to his majlis and I’m astounded just by how beautiful it is. Thick mud walls the color of date syrup, edged in bright white plaster that catches the light. The ground under my feet is uneven stone, worn smooth in places, as if generations have paced the same path.

Up close, the details start to speak: a small wooden window set deep into the wall, a heavy door tucked into shadow, and above it a rounded corner tower that leans over the courtyard like a lookout. The parapet is crowned with white pointed teeth, Najdi-style crenellations, marching along the roofline in a clean rhythm. Under the overhang, rough wooden beams poke out, dark against the clay, and a few hanging lamps sit quietly in the shade, waiting for evening.

Inside, the majlis feels warm, like the embrace of an old friend, even though everyone here is a stranger. Low timber beams and packed-earth ceilings sit overhead, lantern lights casting a soft glow across mud-plastered walls trimmed in crisp white patterns. Rugs cover the floor in bold reds and geometrics, cushions line the edges, and wall niches display brass dallahs and old keepsakes, giving the whole room a quiet, lived-in calm.

Fahad Al-Salem, Abu Abdulaziz, the host and owner of the home.

The owner of the home, Bu Abdulaziz, is an interesting, charismatic figure. One of those people who makes a place feel alive the moment he starts talking. He doesn’t just greet passersby; he gathers them in, eager to share the story of his house and the village around it. He asks my name, where I’m from, and as soon as I introduce myself, he smiles and says he can tell my family’s roots trace back to Ushaiqer. I confirm it, and in that instant the distance between “guest” and “family” seems to disappear.

From there, the day unfolds like I’m not visiting at all, like I’m returning to something I’d forgotten was mine. I spend hours with Bu Abdulaziz, his brother, his nephew, and his in-laws, moving through the village as they point out the buildings that matter: old homes, gathering spaces, corners with stories attached to them. They walk me through the village’s history with the ease of people who’ve lived it, not just memorized it.

They show me the farms, how the land still holds its rhythms, and talk about the residents’ role in keeping everything standing. What stays with me most is the pride in the details: how they rebuilt what time had worn down, how they preserved the character instead of replacing it, and how care for the village isn’t a project for them, it’s a responsibility, carried quietly, like looking after your own family home.

We spent the evening tucked between Ushaiqer’s dunes, the air cooling as the sun slipped away. Abu Abdulaziz filled the silence with old stories, then began reciting poetry, verses about family, history, and heritage, and the feeling of returning to where you began, as if every road eventually bends back to its origin.

What I witnessed in Ushaiqer wasn’t just “heritage preservation” in the institutional sense, it was a living form of planning, led by residents who understand the value of place because they’ve carried it in their daily lives. In a time when we often speak about resilience through infrastructure, policy, and technology, Ushaiqer reminded me that resilience is also social: it’s memory, stewardship, and the quiet pride that turns maintenance into meaning. Bu Abdulaziz and the people of the village weren’t simply restoring walls, they were restoring continuity, making sure the village remains legible to its children, and welcoming to those who arrive searching for something they can’t quite name.

Between the dunes of Ushaiqer (Myself, 2025).

This is where the idea of “citizen planners” becomes real. They may not write zoning codes or draft masterplans, but they shape the future through caretaking, storytelling, hosting, and rebuilding with sensitivity. They safeguard identity while keeping the village active, not frozen, proving that belonging is not manufactured through branding, but earned through relationships, ritual, and shared responsibility. The majlis becomes a planning room. The alley becomes a narrative archive. The farm becomes an ecosystem lesson. And the visitor, stranger, or descendant becomes part of the story the moment they’re welcomed in.

As we continue to discuss pathways to quality of life in our cities and regions, I keep returning to that evening in the dunes: poetry about family, history, and the pull of origins, spoken under an open sky. It made me reflect on how our planning practice can better honor people’s emotional geographies, not only where they live, but where they feel they belong. Perhaps the most enduring form of resilience is the one that makes a person say, even far from home:

I’ve returned.

Evaluating Urban Heritage In Doha

Historic urban cores are the backbone of a city’s cultural identity. London; Rome; Istanbul; and Tokyo are all cities that have existed for centuries, and are places that have captured the eyes and hearts of the world. These cities all share something in the fact that they have a defined cultural identity that survived through the preservation and maintenance of the socio-cultural, environmental and economic characteristics of their built heritage. The preservation of built heritage represents a collection of ‘local memories’ that allows citizens to interact, share, and experience urban history as the city lives and breathes. In an age where cities all over the world compete to attract global markets, cultural heritage acts as a magnet for tourists and investors. It is no surprise then that there is a great deal of interest for cities that seek to penetrate the global stage such as Doha, to market themselves not only as new and cutting edge but as centers of culture and history.

Souq Waqif circa 1967. Taken from Anne Elliot’s Flickr page.

Souq Waqif circa 1967. Taken from Anne Elliot’s Flickr page.

Jane Jacobs writes extensively in The Death and Life of Great American Cities on preservation issues and the need for old buildings: “Cities need old buildings so badly it is probably impossible for vigorous streets and districts to grow without them. By old buildings I mean not museum-piece old buildings, not old buildings in an excellent and expensive state of rehabilitation–although these make fine ingredients–but also a good lot of plain, ordinary, low-value old buildings, including some rundown old buildings”.

The Gulf states present extremely complicated and interesting issues in planning and governance that are entirely exclusive to the region, largely due to the massive influx of wealth from oil revenues in the 70s. The advent of modernization from oil demanded a substantial amount of development, and it had to happen fast. Our idea and preconceptions of Gulf cities as ‘skyscrappers sprouting out of the harsh, hot deserts’ have emerged out of this demand to develop, yet this statement disregards the heritage, culture, and history of its inhabitants and its people. The claim that places like the Gulf states, including Qatar, as having no heritage is reductionist. I believe that this claim stems from the lack of architectural conservation practices in Doha over the past 50 years. In this article, I attempt to deconstruct the claim of Doha as a place that lacks heritage through the context of architectural preservation and highlight current and old conservation attempts in the city.

Today in Doha, there is a severe lack of authentic historic districts and buildings. The urban form of Doha, much like other Khaleeji cities, is sleek, modern, and futuristic. The administrative heart of Doha, West Bay, is dominated by cutting edge shiny skyscrapers. Commercial development in downtown Doha, either destroyed, demolished or left its old districts to rot by the forces of urban decay. Change and progress have always been used as justification for the demolition of old districts in Doha, revenues from oil and an increasing population size demanded rapid development. The population growth required a quick response from the government to establish Doha’s first masterplan in 1972 that would redevelop Doha’s traditional low-rise residential quarters to high-density commercial and office buildings. This action acted as a means of redistributing oil wealth through the financial transaction of buying old residential quarters by the government from citizens. This encouraged the local population to move from old Doha to its suburbs. Today only a few districts and buildings survive in downtown Doha, and Doha’s supposedly ‘aggressive preservation policies and projects’ focus on “re-imaginings of indigenous architectural styles” and inventing their own new individual and distinct tangible architectural identity through urban renewal projects such as Msheireb Downtown Doha.

The Souq Waqif restoration project and the Msheireb Downtown Doha project both market themselves as projects that save endangered buildings. Ironically, Souq Waqif’s restoration in 2006, had buildings constructed after 1950 demolished, while older buildings were preserved. Msheireb Downtown Doha preserves its historic district and buildings and reappropriates it into museums that show off the history of the state, and the city itself and in its goal of reviving the old commercial district while introducing “a new architectural language that is modern, yet inspired by traditional Qatari heritage and architecture”, it demolished much of the old district with only four palaces and courtyards surviving. The old buildings of Msheireb Downtown Doha and Souq Waqif are the museum-piece old buildings that Jane Jacobs seemingly talked about.  Conservation attempts in Doha neglect ‘normal’ old buildings and districts.

So what can be done about this in Doha? Djamel Boussaa has an article in the Journal of Architectural Conservation that details recommended actions to be taken for Doha’s Al-Asmakh historic district:

  • Stop demolition of buildings in Al Asmakh;

  • Document and survey the remaining houses in Al Asmakh;

  • Take a bottom-up rather than a top-down approach in deciding about the future of Al Asmakh;

  • Start restoration work one house at a time to avoid massive displacement of the workers;

  • Once the rehabilitation work is completed, priority should be given to the original owners to come back; in the case that they refuse, the houses can be made available for rent to expatriates who will be able to look after them;

  • Limit accessibility to the area by car and encourage pedestrianized streets;

  • Create physical links through bridges or tunnels with Souk Waqif and Msheireb;

  • Rehabilitate the area for mixed-use activities, such as cultural, educational and administrative business in addition to the main residential activity of the area.

The Qatar National Development Framework (QNDF) extensively discusses issues of historic preservation and creating townships, particularly maintaining Al-Wakra as a historic town, and focusing in on redeveloping commercial downtown Doha into a cultural and historic site. The plan also calls for immediate action on identifying and protecting historic mosques through registering them as heritage buildings by the Qatar Museum Authority and the Ministry of Endowments and Islamic Affairs. Moreover, the QNDF also acknowledges the deterioration and the authenticity of historic sites within Doha’s downtown: “Rapid demolition and deterioration of historic buildings and sites and an over-reliance on replica buildings are depriving areas and communities of their genuine historical and cultural value”.

The QNDF also calls for immediate policy actions, including establishing conservation areas to protect traditional villages, forts, and other historic buildings. It states that Zones 4 and 5 (Al-Najada, Al Asmakh, and Msheireb) of Downtown Doha, will be considered for priority designations. The policy action also states that applications for development within Conservation Areas will need to include developer commitments to the retrofitting or reuse of listed buildings that preserve their historic or cultural character and materials. The plan also calls for the implementation and preparation of a National Heritage Strategy and a Cultural Master Plan which would: “identifies, protects and allows for controlled redevelopment of nationally important archaeological, cultural and historic buildings, sites and contextual areas”.

Demolition of an old building in Al Asmakh, taken from Djamel Boussa’s article.

Demolition of an old building in Al Asmakh, taken from Djamel Boussa’s article.

It is important to note that while the bulk of Doha’s remaining historic buildings are located within Zones 4 and 5, particularly in Al Najada and Al Asmakh, the national development framework and its subsequent National Heritage Strategy and a Cultural Master Plan should also include Fereej Abdulaziz in Zone 14, Old Al-Ghanim (Al-Ghanim Al-’Ateeq) in Zones 6 and 16, Umm Ghuwailina in Zone 27, Al-Hitmi in Zone 17, and Slata in Zone 18.

Urgent action needs to be taken in the preservation of Doha’s historic core. There should be a clear, defined, and transparent strategy to integrate, strengthen, and preserve Doha’s historic core in the field of the existing urban development strategy. Historic preservation has become an important issue to the local population today, and Msheireb’s revival project was met with a positive response as a result of this, however, restoration and preservation efforts should also focus not only on creating museum-like set pieces but creating living heritage quarters and preserving ‘normal’ historic buildings in their regular state. These historic quarters not only act as a collection of local memories and create a sense of cultural identity, but they provide great commercial value in the field of tourism. There exists a great amount of potential in Doha’s historic district as districts of living heritage, but as it stands, it countinues to be neglected as an urban slum.

 

Additional Readings:

Boussaa, Djamel (2014): Al Asmakh historic district in Doha, Qatar: from an urban slum to living heritage, Journal of Architectural Conservation, DOI: 10.1080/13556207.2014.888815

Fadli, Fodil & Alsaeed, Mahmoud. (2019): A Holistic Overview of Qatar’s (Built) Cultural Heritage; Towards an Integrated Sustainable Conservation Strategy. Sustainability. 11. 2277. 10.3390/su11082277.

Al-mulla, Mariam Ibrahim. (2017): Reconstructing Qatari Heritage: Simulacra and Simulation, Journal of Literature and Art Studies, DOI: 10.17265/2159-5836/2017.06.007

Karen Exell & Trinidad Rico. (2013): ‘There is no heritage in Qatar’: Orientalism, colonialism and other problematic histories, World Archaeology, 45:4, 670-685, DOI: 10.1080/00438243.2013.852069

Boussaa, Djamel. (2017): Urban Regeneration and the Search for Identity in Historic Cities. Sustainability. 10. DOI: 48. 10.3390/su10010048.

Lockerbie, John: The old buildings of Qatar. Catnaps.org. http://catnaps.org/islamic/islaqatold.html.

Center for GIS Qatar, Ministry of Municipality and Environment: Qatar Essence of the Past. http://gisqatar.org.qa/eop/